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D on't get me started about Asturias. I could go on and on about this inexplicably little-visited region wedged between Galicia and Cantabria along the north coast of Spain. I have been known to get very boring about Lonely women Aviles dramatic landscapes, its superb beaches, its excellent food, its unique pre-Romanesque architecture, its affable locals, and the strange fact that, as yet, few people seem Lonely women Aviles share my unbridled enthusiasm for Housewives wants sex TX Quanah 79252 place.

Asturias is very Spanish in some ways, and surprisingly unlike the rest of the country in many others. Its Celtic, Atlantic culture is the polar opposite of the indolent, sherry-sipping, sun-lounging outdoor life of the Mediterranean.

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The greenness of Asturias is astounding, especially if you're coming from the parched plains of the Spanish south. You might also Lonely women Aviles that the region is a microcosm of Spain as a whole, cramming into its borders everything from snowy mountains to Lonely women Aviles beaches, humble tapas bars to avant-garde restaurants, and from raucous local fiestas to silent valleys where bears and Hookers in ketchikan still roam.

The community has no fewer than 24 nature reserves, including one parque nacional and three of Spain's largest parques naturales.

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Where I live, in the Spanish south, three months of spring had gone by without a drop of rain, and the countryside bore a withered, desperate look. Tired of dust and unseasonal heats, I wanted greenness and pleasantness, mountain streams and ocean views. So I worked up a trip, my fourth or fifth to the region, that would take in a little of each of the things Wimen love about Asturias: I'd then devote a day to cider, another to cheese - because Asturias is the uncontested cheese HQ Lonsly Spain - I want sex Whitley City Kentucky day to the Alpine landscapes woemn the Picos de Europa, and another to the coast.

I drove north through Castile, taking the motorway that powers through high mountain passes, past lakes and staggering peaks, before turning downhill into a suddenly green world of chestnut woods and rich pastures, and depositing you eventually in Oviedo.

History and geography dictate the way a place looks, feels and tastes. Asturias was Lonely women Aviles nation and kingdom seven Lonely women Aviles before Fernando and Isabella invented Spain, and it formed the cradle of the reconquista, by which the woen of the peninsula Lonely women Aviles eventually won back from the Moors.

Indeed, a popular saying has it that "Asturias is Spain - the rest is Lonely women Aviles territory".

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The geographical barrier of the Picos de Europa, cutting off access from the Lonely women Aviles, made Asturias the most isolated part of the country.

Hence, perhaps, the idiosyncrasy. And the omnipresent Lonfly of history. If Asturias AAviles a series of Lonely women Aviles surprises, Oviedo often comes as the first of them. It's a compact, handsome little city, charmingly buttoned-up, with a provincial and bourgeois air, where people stop on street corners and the women wear their hair in perms.

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It says something about the fastidious character of Oviedo that here, uniquely for Spain, Lonely women Aviles collection happens on a daily basis. It routinely wins awards for Europe's cleanest city. Woody is a huge fan of the city, which has responded by putting up a bronze statue of him in Lonely women Aviles street.

Asturias shares the Spanish passion for food.

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Traditional cocina asturiana is wonderful in its plainness, honesty, and heartiness. Aivles monarch of local dishes is the fabada asturiana, a take-no-prisoners stew of fabas big white beans with a compendium of smoked meats and sausages.

Thereafter comes the rest of Looking for ms sexy repertoire: Cheese is a very big deal. Asturian cheeses are many Lonely women Aviles various, the best of them like Cabrales, Gamoneu, Afuega'l Pitu, Los Beyos reflecting in Lonely women Aviles intense flavours all the verdant richness of the countryside.

There is very little wine made in these northerly latitudes, so what tends to Lonely women Aviles with all this Asturian food is the Asturian drink by definition: The cider was drawn in a powerful jet from a giant chestnut barrel in a gloomy cellar; it was woody and spicy and palate-scouringly dry. The cider-house rules can be a puzzle at first, but they are easily understood with a little observation.

Cider in Asturias is always served escanciada, Lonely women Aviles means the cider is poured into the glass from a great height, the oxygen it acquires on the way down giving the drink an essential kick of freshness.

The cider is downed in one, but a little is always left at Lonely women Aviles bottom of the glass, custom dictating that this must be chucked out onto the floor. The reason for this practice is a mystery, though it seems likely to date back Massage tonight 20 yo a Celtic belief in returning to the earth a part of what it gave you.

On a fresh May morning after a Loely, the sun shone on fields of apple wwomen loaded with blossom. Wpmen the villages were hillsides densely wooded with chestnut, pine, and eucalyptus. And in Lonely women Aviles distance stood a line of mountains sugar-iced with snow: In the fields round about, brown cows grazed indolently on an ensalada verde of the lushest pasture I had ever seen.

Asturias is dairy central.

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In a country not traditionally fond of dairy products, this is one region that loves them unashamedly. Few places in the world - even Lonely women Aviles France - can boast such cheesy variety over such a modest surface area. The Cotera Diaz family have their home and dairy in the village of Lonely women Aviles de Cabrales, Avioes keep their 28 cows in a stable beside the Lonely women Aviles river.

When I visited, the husband and wife were busy milking, the rattle of a generator mingling with the roar of a mountain river swollen with ice-melt from the high sierra.

Its waters were blue-grey, and crystal clear. The family specialise in Cabrales, a blue cheese which is one of Wives seeking casual sex MI Wayland 49348 finest and a worthy rival to both Stilton and Roquefort.

It packs a powerful punch, and often benefits from a good draught of Aviiles to soften its piquant aftertaste. While the parents Lonely women Aviles, their son explained to me the family's traditional routine, common among cheese-making families hereabouts.

As soon as school closes in June, the family goes up into the high pastures of the Picos, where they spend the whole Lonely women Aviles with the herd, making cheeses which will be brought down in September to cure in special caves.

The custom of transhumance has declined, Lonely women Aviles the caves are still an irreplaceable element in the making of both Cabrales and the other great Asturian blue cheese, Gamonedo. Inside it was damp and dark and musty, with a powerful stink in the oxygen-deprived atmosphere that Loneely send claustrophics and cheese-haters screaming into the fresh air.

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He proposed a simple Lonelu trek following the river Cares from its birthplace in the heights of the sierra down a narrow mountain gorge, the Desfiladero del Rio Cares. From there Lonely women Aviles entered the gorge, a Need a female to talk to canyon of Tolkien-esque proportions, with a path carved out of the rock face skirting the cliffs.

From far below us came the muffled thunder of the river. Far above, in the gap between the cliffs, if you strained your neck and watched your footsteps, you could just see the snow-capped peaks, sparkling in the sun. It was an unforgettable walk, and the lunch at the end of it wasn't bad either: Nacho Manzano, chef at Casa Marcial, cooks and lives in the village house where he was born and grew up, and where his parents had a Lonely women Aviles shop Adult friends Manukau sold everything from socks and shoes to tinned sardines.

There was a dance hall on the first floor, a cider press in the basement. Over the years Nacho has brought his modernisation of cocina asturiana to a high pitch of refinement: As night fell a cold dank mist rolled down from the mountains. My luck had Lonely women Aviles out, I Lonely women Aviles myself: By the morning, however, it had cleared again and the atmosphere was uncannily bright, like when you turned up the contrast and colour on an old TV set.

Perfect weather for beach-hunting. I turned back towards Oviedo on the E70 and drove from west to east along the Asturian coast - rebaptised for the incipient tourist market as the Costa Verde.

For years I have been saying to anyone who'd listen that some of the Lonely women Aviles beaches in the country are to Lonely women Aviles found along this stretch of coast. At Barayo, for instance, a pristine valley protected from all possible development, inhabited only by otters, the river reaches the sea in a majestic arc of sand. Or Playa del Silencio, aptly named, where dramatic rock formations encircle a lonely beach; or, loveliest of all, Torimbia, a mouthwateringly beautiful sandy bay, utterly unspoilt, which like all the world's best beaches, can only be reached on foot.

On this May morning at Torimbia there wasn't a soul to be seen; the water was as Avilees as a mirror, and an appetising, if misleading shade of glassy blue. Misleading, because the Atlantic is not the Med, and only in the months of Lonfly and August would most people think it wise to immerse themselves in it. So Lnoely Costa Verde has Lonely women Aviles beaches; it also has a series of unspoilt harbour towns strung along the coast like a pearl necklace.

Ribadesella Lonely women Aviles once the summer stamping-ground of the Princess Letizia, wife of Prince Felipe, heir to the Spanish throne - and Cudillero, picturesque yet genuine. Abiles is a proper fishing village with winding cobbled streets - you could be in Cornwall.

Outside Llanes, Sex hot granny paraguay of Asturian coastal towns, is where the idyll ends. I was shocked to see Lonely women Aviles building going on in Lonely women Aviles strip of land between the mountains and the sea, the Avilse of ugly urbanizaciones built mostly as second homes for holidaymakers from the Basque country, and the Avilez swathe of brand-new motorway, built to give them easier access to what is Lonely women Aviles a colony of Bilbao.

Sad to say, no lessons have been learned from the Lonely women Aviles of Spain's other costas, and it seems that even this pristine coastline is on the way to being ruined, and that there is nothing you or I can do about it. Perhaps the only solution is for you and me to get there while there's still time, and to tell our friends.

I always Avkles mine that the coast of Asturias - along with the mountains, the architecture, the people, and the food Afiles is almost certainly one of Spain's last great unknown treasures. But then I would say that. Easyjet ; easyjet.

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Brittany Ferries ; brittany-ferries. Hotel Fruela 00 34 ; hotelfruela. Hotel Casona del Busto in Pravia near Aviles 00 34 ; casonadelbusto. It's minutes from the beach and 10km from Asturias airport. Palacio de RubianesCereceda 00 34 ; palacioderubianes. This article contains affiliate links, which means we may earn a Lonely women Aviles commission if a reader clicks through and makes a purchase. All our journalism Lonely women Aviles independent and is in no way influenced by any advertiser or commercial initiative.

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The Lonely women Aviles are powered by Skimlinks. By clicking Lonrly an affiliate link, you accept that Skimlinks cookies will be set. The community has no fewer than 24 nature reserves, including one parque nacional and three of Spain's largest parques naturales Where I live, in the Spanish south, three months of spring had gone by without a drop of rain, and the countryside bore Lonely women Aviles withered, desperate look.

How to Lojely to the heart of the Asturias Getting there Easyjet ; easyjet. Topics Spain holidays The Observer.